Today we covered the rest of Wyoming, at least the northern part of the state. We saw small towns (Greybull) and really small towns (Emblem, population 10.) The geography was interesting but then got fascinating when we reached Bighorn National Forest. At first we drove through canyons etched by the Shell Creek. Then we started to climb. And climb and climb and climb. (In the car, not on foot!) We stopped at Shell Falls and had a great time walking around the falls and viewing it from observation decks.

From there we climbed to an eventual altitude of 9,033 feet. By then the geography had become rolling hills and grazing lands. You have to watch for cattle crossing the road. They do take their time.

Late in the afternoon we rolled into Deadwood. The HBO show was loosely based on the early history of this town. We knew in advance it was a tourist trap so our expectations were not too high. And yet, we were disappointed. It’s ‘Vegas Lite’ with electronic gambling in pretty much every establishment. All the stores and restaurants have casinos in front. You’ll find the restaurant at the back or upstairs or downstairs from the casino. Most of the stores are t-shirt shops. Yeah, we bought a t-shirt or two.

What made Deadwood interesting in the 1870’s was that it was an illegal town. General Custer brought news of gold findings in 1874 and a gold rush was on. The only problem was the land belonged to the Lakota Indians as a result of a treaty in 1868. So as the town developed, it could not have an official government. It was a rowdy place and alcohol, drugs and prostitution were all available in abundance. Eventually some form of order evolved in part due to a strong-minded sheriff named Seth Bullock. It was said they had order, but no laws; where you might say today we have laws but less and less order.

Anyway, today Deadwood has laws. And gambling (legal). And drinking. We saw a lot of public drunkenness, open containers, etc.

None of the structures from the 1870’s exist today. There was a massive fire in 1879. They rebuilt mainly with brick and stone. A lot of the names of places have been re-used (Gem Theater, Bullock Hotel, No 10 Saloon, etc.) Wild Bill Hickok died here in 1876. A lot of stores, bars, restaurants and hotels use his name at least in part.

We planned two days here, but may leave early to split the drive to Chicago into three days instead of two.